So for the past week, I have been mostly on my own or with friends around Encinitas or San Clemente area that have nothing to do with the surfing industry. And let me tell you, it’s a breath of fresh air. I am usually surrounded by the competition issues, schedules, demands and mental hype that I can’t wait to get the heat over and done with so I can relax! I am usually with other surfing friends that all compete and are in the comp mode. Don’t get me wrong, I still have surfed the areas and do the usual prep of a competition, but I’m currently trying to find MY way and what’s works for me.
This time, I have been completely opposite, and to tell you the truth, I fricken loved it. I haven’t surfed my heat yet (its’s actually the morning of…and I should probably go soon…) so that might be a deciding factor weather or not its been good for me or not, but I have loved the life out of the atmosphere. I don’t know if this is a sign that maybe competition isn’t my thing, but I have surfed my ass off over the past couple of days and I am completely confident in my own abilities to surf anywhere.
It’s been a matter of trial and error and I guess every comp I’m one step closer to my goals. I sat down here to study biochemistry but realised this was something I wanted to share. Right now I’m in the most beautiful area called San Juan Capistrano – The Hidden Café (it’s a must stop at for a coffee!) The area is incredible with tiny little old wooden houses, gift shops, and gardens down an old street hidden near the train station. Anyway, if the same routines hasn't worked, change it! And thats what I'm doing.
P.S... I'm probably going to move here. Point Loma Im coming for you.
I am angry, sad, got an enema and disappointed in my self. Critically analysing what mistakes I made. I am hard on myself and I can’t help it when you come all this way to get knocked in a heat.
Its hard watching your friends get through and you constantly get knocked back. Don’t get me wrong I’m stoked they get through!
There is that shit gut feeling of being left behind.
Happy chit chat in the car for them but silence for me as your brain just relays at how shit you went and the shit that you did wrong.
Mexico, there were no waves, so I’m just gonna flag that one. El Salvador there were 6ft waves to be shared. Glassy and perfect conditions in the morning but onshore by the time I’m about to head out. Happens every time…but I’m not blaming the waves.
I was slow with my turns, not vertical and critical enough for the judges criteria. I’m typing this out in my 25 dollar room wanting to throw something. But, I won’t because that doesn’t help anyone.
Tomorrow I will look at it a differently. Last year I came in from El Salvador with catching nothing, falling off.
I landed on my ass so hard that i’m pretty sure I got a free salt water enema. Trust me thats not what you want.
I went further this year by making a round and actually getting a waves. At the moment, positive notes suck, so give me a day and then I can look at it with more light and as a learning experience. I am better than what I was last year. So every bit counts.
Like I say, no one is perfect and I’ll pick myself up tomorrow. But for now, I’m gonna watch Game of Thrones and eat some cocao melts.
It was a year ago today that I was cruising up the bruce highway from my Coolangatta apartment on a trip to Mexico. It was at that moment that I reached the airport and realised I had forgotten my suitcase...yes that happened. I literally was so concentrated on my food on the plane and my board bags in the car that I forgot the fricken suit case...obviously it was my third priority. I was literally a few 100meters from pulling up when a massive slap in the face realisation that I didn't put the dang suitcase in!
Seriously though, who does that? I had my boards and the thought crossed my mind that I could get away with only having my board for 3 weeks. I could just buy clothes, togs, borrow fins and necessities over there and be alright. Ahhhhhh nup, I was pretty fucked. I called a neighbour and they met me half way with my bag in tow! I had planned to be early so made it...kinda. They had closed the gate but they reopened it for me. Lucky I was with virgin...jetstar could have been another story. That was only the beginning of a pretty crappy 24hrs of travel. More unfortunate events included cancelled flights, hurricanes, a little bit of crying (i'm blaming it on the lack of sleep). Buying another ticket...extra 500 give or take, Mexican driver not showing up(who was also responsible for our room and keys), not being able to find our room, no water of power when we arrived and some language barriers that absolutely sucked. So this 24hrs will hopefully be a little smoother.
Any way Im on my way, boards packed, everything in tow, its blowing a gale, pooring with rain and may have some current delays. First up Mexico, then El Salavador, Nicaragua and the California coast line.
Im not one to usually talk about myself. But apparently some people would like to know why I am the way I am. I eat a certain way (for me its not a certain way, its actually normal). How I got to the point of where I am today. My education in Nutritional medicine and what are my plans for the future (make it to the top of course) And I guess how I'm going to get there.
Dr Sam Parker was kind enough to ask me onto his podcast show for all you surfing foodies out there interested in living the dream. It only takes 30 minutes of your time...that you wont get back, but Im sure you are a great multi tasking individual. Enjoy, just click here.
I recently did a podcast with Dr Brett Hill about food, growing up, how and why I eat the way I do. Let me know what you think! Click the link above to have a listen.
So this year has been a rollercoaster ride through the WQS and surfing. I have gained a lot of experience and felt a lot of pressure. I thought it would be a lot easier, but dreams wouldn't be called dreams if they were easy to get to.
I never have said it out loud. Mostly because I didn't belie it myself, but I want to make the world tour. I have never said it to friends, never said it to my family (even though I knew that was what I wanted) I always kinda sidelined it as if I wasn't good enough. I didn't have the confidence. But this year coming around is a new one and I realised I need to say it out loud, write it down and write it everywhere. Words are powerful, and what you put out into the universe some how works for you in crazy ways. After this year didn't work too well for me, I decided to change it up, change my training regime, change my ideas of
I used to have that constant mental battle with my self. I was picky on what was not perfect, I was constantly judging and comparing, and I didn't see what was actually good about being me. This didn't happen through school actually this happened after school. I am a 100% a true believer of being kind to your self and having positive affirmations. Before I lose you on the 'this chick is weird' thing, note that t I also had that view, and it has taken me a a bit of time to accept that this is what I do and this is how good it makes me feel. Weird or not, it works and I take the time in a day to write it down.
Every morning (okay maybe not every single morning, I do have my lazy days), I write 10 things that I am grateful, it can literally be anything! By doing this, you acknowledge what you have in the world and on what you have that day. This also takes away the un important and distracting thing that your brain makes up. By doing this, I became more focused on what I had, than what I didn't have or what I wanted. This helped in so many more ways than you can imagine. In surfing, in self image, health, training, family, the list goes on.
Im not a life coach but these are the little things that have helped me get a little further in every aspect of my life. The battle of self image was a biggie and I will be surprised if you are a woman and have not experienced it. Constantly comparing myself to others was something I did a lot. Even with my sister, I would beat my self down for not having her body!
I hope that these little things that I note will make a difference in what ever you are trying to achieve. Its never too late to start.
If you have been following me on some of my social media, you would have seen that I was in Bali. And I ust say I had one of the best weeks of my life surfing. I knew we were going to get epic waves, but there was this one period of 24hrs where everything just fell into place and will stay with me for a lifetime.
It was so hard to get the crew together and moving that I actually doubted the little trip would happen. When there are a lot of you, you find yourself getting distracted by shinny things and moving at a snails pace. But thats all the more fun sometimes! So you can imagine what it took to get 5 scooters, a fully packed car and 6 boards to an isolated beach. We stopped and got bali takeaway food, street corn, let off fireworks into the sky, had a fire and slept in our board bags to wake up to an epic wave in front of us. There I would have to say I scored one of the best couple of waves in my surfing life so far. I literally couldn't sit still after I got one. My smile was from ear to ear and couldn't hide it. Even better, it was caught on camera. I can't thank the Monsta crew and Hayden O'neill enough for the adventure of a lifetime. Something that will stay with me forever.
Even though I was not all for the idea of camping out, I wasnt going to miss out! Stepping out of my comfort zone has always ended up being the best thing I ever do. Thanks for the memories! Here is a little write up the inetia did about it as well! The Inertia
Being at a competition is always a long day. The supergirl pro down in Oceanside California is a 3 days event that is the biggest of the year with 107 girls entered. The waves are usually tiny, and it's a shit fight to get through the first 2 to 3 rounds.
I had some unfortunate events! My heat started off with my first wave into the pier (at least i committed to the wave), my body went one way, and the board went the other. Half my board is in the middle of the pier and the other still attached. If your gonna snap a board, I think I did it perfectly. Previously that day, I was not going to take a back up board, the waves are 2ft, very weak, and are grovel sloshes, so not the type of wave to snap a board! But lucky enough I was given a lecture on why I should take one just in case, lucky I did! Unfortunately my back up board was not for those waves, lesson learnt, and I didn't progress. I dwelled on it for about 10 and chose to put it behind, learn from it and move on.
This is my first year competing, and I have only ever made a heat here and there. The transition from free surfing to competing is a different story. But the pressure builds causing all connections to the mind to the body to be cut and you surf like a kook. I find a routine is best and eating well is an utmost important key to feeling good.
Not just at a comp or just leading up to it, I eat clean and alway consider my diet in my everyday routine. I 100% agree that protein is a vital source for my body to be able to function and plenty of water!
Breakfast: omelet with veggies and avocado, maybe even some hummus.
Lunch: chicken and salad
Dinner: pork and veggies
I don't usually indulge in the snacks provided as usual at filled with flavours, colours, fake protein, evergy shots, and drinks. They do sometimes provide a good lunch and free fruit bowls!
Thanks to the #supergirlpro, and the unlimited acai bowls ! X T.
Recently I ventured to Mexico for a WQS ( Women's Qualifying Series for those who don't know). I started with a bit of a rough journey! I arrived in Mexico finally after forgetting baggage (don't ask how that happened...), nearly missing my flight from Brisbane, cancelled flight in LA, hurricane landing on another airline that I scurried to get to, driver not showing up, communication with the unit manager was nil and unknown room number, grabbed a bit of shelter from the 90knot winds around a corner until we finally made contact and to top it off, there was power outage and no water in the unit after the 20 hours of travel. An adventure to say the least!
Well hello and welcome to my blog. I'm currently travelling the globe, surfing, eating, cooking and learning whilst juggling the study of a B.Sc in Nutritional Medicine.
How I started my degree, click below for more details