I am angry, sad, got an enema and disappointed in my self. Critically analysing what mistakes I made. I am hard on myself and I can’t help it when you come all this way to get knocked in a heat.
Its hard watching your friends get through and you constantly get knocked back. Don’t get me wrong I’m stoked they get through!
There is that shit gut feeling of being left behind.
Happy chit chat in the car for them but silence for me as your brain just relays at how shit you went and the shit that you did wrong.
Mexico, there were no waves, so I’m just gonna flag that one. El Salvador there were 6ft waves to be shared. Glassy and perfect conditions in the morning but onshore by the time I’m about to head out. Happens every time…but I’m not blaming the waves.
I was slow with my turns, not vertical and critical enough for the judges criteria. I’m typing this out in my 25 dollar room wanting to throw something. But, I won’t because that doesn’t help anyone.
Tomorrow I will look at it a differently. Last year I came in from El Salvador with catching nothing, falling off.
I landed on my ass so hard that i’m pretty sure I got a free salt water enema. Trust me thats not what you want.
I went further this year by making a round and actually getting a waves. At the moment, positive notes suck, so give me a day and then I can look at it with more light and as a learning experience. I am better than what I was last year. So every bit counts.
Like I say, no one is perfect and I’ll pick myself up tomorrow. But for now, I’m gonna watch Game of Thrones and eat some cocao melts.
Well hello and welcome to my blog. I'm currently travelling the globe, surfing, eating, cooking and learning whilst juggling the study of a B.Sc in Nutritional Medicine.
How I started my degree, click below for more details