So for the past week, I have been mostly on my own or with friends around Encinitas or San Clemente area that have nothing to do with the surfing industry. And let me tell you, it’s a breath of fresh air. I am usually surrounded by the competition issues, schedules, demands and mental hype that I can’t wait to get the heat over and done with so I can relax! I am usually with other surfing friends that all compete and are in the comp mode. Don’t get me wrong, I still have surfed the areas and do the usual prep of a competition, but I’m currently trying to find MY way and what’s works for me.
This time, I have been completely opposite, and to tell you the truth, I fricken loved it. I haven’t surfed my heat yet (its’s actually the morning of…and I should probably go soon…) so that might be a deciding factor weather or not its been good for me or not, but I have loved the life out of the atmosphere. I don’t know if this is a sign that maybe competition isn’t my thing, but I have surfed my ass off over the past couple of days and I am completely confident in my own abilities to surf anywhere.
It’s been a matter of trial and error and I guess every comp I’m one step closer to my goals. I sat down here to study biochemistry but realised this was something I wanted to share. Right now I’m in the most beautiful area called San Juan Capistrano – The Hidden Café (it’s a must stop at for a coffee!) The area is incredible with tiny little old wooden houses, gift shops, and gardens down an old street hidden near the train station. Anyway, if the same routines hasn't worked, change it! And thats what I'm doing.
P.S... I'm probably going to move here. Point Loma Im coming for you.
Well hello and welcome to my blog. I'm currently travelling the globe, surfing, eating, cooking and learning whilst juggling the study of a B.Sc in Nutritional Medicine.
How I started my degree, click below for more details